#andwerehoff Wittenberg-Berlin

Joy and I visited Wittenberg in December 1999. I suppose it is hard to compare a visit in cold and dark December to a visit in the light of late June. It was bright at 5:30am and long twilight until past 10pm. We find it hard to go to bed at our normal times, and end up sleeping in longer than we are used to as well. Wittenberg seemed dark and dreary in 1999. I would not have described it as quaint. Now it is. They have worked so hard to prepare for the jubilee year in 2017.

I snooped around on Tuesday night, and to my dismay, the Castle Church (95 theses church and graves of Luther, Melancthon, and Fredrick the Wise), was inaccessible to anyone by construction workers (who were working through the night). Thankfully, the morning revealed that it was wide open, even with an abundance of interior and exterior work. The inside is restored beautifully. Again, the ceiling would be distracting.

A friend we met was explaining the generalized differences between the English and Germans. One difference she mentioned is Germans always ask, "How can we make this better? How can we fix this?" This is true of what we have seen. There is a respect for tradition and old stones and old architecture, but there is also an embrace of improved lighting, and technology, accessibility and contemporary design. Some of the old churches have the most beautifully modern features. Here is looking to the front of the Castle Church. 

This was also called "All Saints" Church, probably because of the enormous amount of relics and holy pieces of saints collected by the Elector, which made it a very popular place for pilgrimage especially around All Saints (Hallows)/All Souls Days which made the timing of Luther's posting of his theses (31 October 1517) regarding indulgences all the more dramatic. Luther, the pastor, noticed that people were not coming to confession like they used to for gospel relief and biblical guidance, but were instead trusting in purchased indulgences which promised to relieve time in purgatory (and fund building projects!). The heart of Luther's argument was straight from the heart of Jesus. "When our Lord and Master Jesus Christ said, 'Repent,' he willed the entire life of believers to be one of repentance." Luther was reiterating the gospel which isn't bought cheaply with money or pilgrimages or good intentions or resolution, but is given freely by a Lord who made a costly gift to us!

An indulgence from this time (from Luther Museum in Wittenberg)

"A coin in the coffer rings...

The soul from purgatory springs"

Coffer is from the Luther Museum.

Luther's grave under the pulpit.

We walked into town toward the square around the Town Church (St Mary's), and I had Joy take a photo of me in front of Johannes Bugenhagen's home. He, along with Luther, were the founders of the parsonage. He also was a mission supporter for the Reformation as a movement into Scandinavia. Finally, he was Luther's confessor and pastor. 

The Luther Museum. Joy and I tried to make M+K faces. We failed. Luther loved Katie. I think it was mutual. She was offered marriage by another, but said she was waiting for Martin, to whom she felt more suited. They were dynamic. I like his little quote "I would not want to exchange my Katie for France-not for Venice to boot." 

One of my favorite writings by Luther. "On the Freedom of the Christian." It is a terrific example of the importance of paradox in teaching. This one particularly firmly places our location in heavenly places with Christ Jesus, but also "down to earth" in our neighbor. It is such a correction for those of us to take up residence in heaven but not earth, or on earth but not heaven.

"On Good Works" Luther's exposition of the 10 Commandments, which would be the first example of ethics from the evangelical movement.

The Town Church with Lucas Cranach's altar piece with teach on the means of grace. Melancthon (unordained) is baptizing on the left. In the center, Jesus is the host at the Lord's Supper and is feeding Judas. Luther is dressed incognito (as Junker Jorg?). On the right, Bugenhagen is offering absolution (loosing) to a evidently penitent man, and withholding from a proud man who looks like he is saying, "I don't need your stupid gospel--I am fine by myself." This man has his hands cuffed as he leaves proudly. Underneath, Luther is pointing to Jesus from the pulpit.

Baptismal font in which Luther baptized his children. Glad to be with my kids here.

We have records of over 2000 sermons Luther preached here.

Cranach's painting of Jesus' baptism. The words, "This is my beloved son" are pouring out of the Father as the Holy Spirit hovers over Jesus' head.

Joy and Annika went looking for Birkenstocks, and the boys and I found a small zoo and park to throw the frisbee.

This morning (Thursday), before leaving Wittenberg, we stopped into the old Latin School in the town center and visited Kristin Lange, a LCMS commissioned missionary serving as the leader of this new work. At first I thought, "Why would we need a Lutheran missionary in Wittenberg, Germany?" There are good reasons. Less than 10% of the population of Wittenberg has connection to the Church in any way. Years of compromise, the Communism, and now post-modern secularism have decimated the witness to the Gospel here. When we met Kristin, she had just returned from a morning meeting with students in conversational English Bible study and covering cultural issues--opportunities to share the Gospel. She is doing good work. There are many other ministries happening here work exploring. The story of this building is also interesting. Here is the new chapel with this ministry.

We took the train to Berlin (less than an hour), and found Samuel's doppelgänger.

We took another bike tour. Fat Tire Bike Tours was awesome! Such a fun and convenient way around these dense city centers. Here we are part of the old wall. The bear is the symbol of Berlin, and there are these kinds of bears all over town, and on their city flag.

Guard station near Potsdamer Platz. 2 guys with guns for 12 hours at a time told to shoot anyone entering the kill zone between the two walls. 

Left is the old Protestant cathedral, center is the concert hall, right is the old Heugenot cathedral. We asked about their current worshipping communities. NONE! They are museums.

Moving Memorial to the 6 million murdered Jews. There are 2711 coffin like structures sticking out from the uneven ground in the view of many government offices. #true

Part of the wall. I can't believe this was in our lifetime. I was born during the Cold War. I probably thought this was how it always was. It is amazing that the communist era lasted only 40 years in the case of East Germany. I know those were 40 long years for those living under tyranny, but in the light history, it seems so fast (especially since I'm 41). I can tell that our kids think this must be ancient history.

The Reichstag with old (often painful) elements, and a completely transparent dome, which gives people a look right into the German parliment's work. 

Checkpoint Charlie: I'm not sure if KFC was their during the Cold War?

Brandenburg Gate. The Polish fans were lined up outside here watching and cheering for their team as they faced Portugal tonight. I'm glad we weren't there as they just lost in kicks.

Berlin's Cathedral (now functioning). It was built in early 1900, but destroyed in WW2. It was rebuilt in the early 1980's. I asked our tour guide what led the secular government of East Germany to rebuild such a beautiful church when they didn't have any money, nor did they approve of "this message." He said the Protestant Churches of the west collected the money to rebuild this church in the east. Wow! Generous! #beautiful #good 

Love all!